Search Results : resin casting

Apr 062017

I was originally going to post this progress update on Monday; but since we had just gotten back from Tatsu Hobby’s contest; I wanted that post to stand on its own. So a few days later, I’ve continued to plug away at the kit as I got some new ideas flowing but still need to finish off the old ideas that I’ve already started. I also finalized the work on the new toe and will show the process of making resin copies. Since a majority of the build work is done; I also took some time and sprayed the initial layer of primer over the legs and other parts. At this point, it is about 90% primed. Here’s a quick teaser picture.

More after the jump.

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Oct 232017

Last I left off, I had most of the exterior armor pieces painted. The procrastination for the interior armor painting resulted with those bits getting worked on last. The leg armor pieces were painted but I noticed that there were some details that frame up the vents on the front and back, so those areas were masked off and the inset areas were painted with Mr Super Iron then masked off again to paint the frame areas with alclad magnesium. The contrast looks fairly decent when assembled.

Since I am building the Hazel I version, I want to also have it running all three booster shields. The kit unfortunately, only comes with one. I actually started the mold making process at the same time I started spraying the primer. The mold making process takes a bit of time, but if I wrote everything up as it happens sequentially, it becomes harder to follow some of the steps because things keep jumping from one topic to another. That said, lets finish up the mask and paint sessions.

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Resin Figure Flash and Mold Line Removal


This is a tutorial for removing mold lines and flash on resin figures. There are several methods for removing mold lines. These lines are the results of the casting process where most of these parts are done in two part casts. The mold lines results from where the two parts of the mold meet. The most basic method for removing these lines is to use sand paper and simply sand the line away. However, depending on the location of the mold line or flash, different approaches are necessary.

Most flash tabs can be removed with nippers or other cutting implements. The potential problem with this is that if you cut too close to the main part, the stress from the cutting implement may damage the main part. I tend to cut excess flash away, and then sand downthe excess. This is demonstrated in the video below.

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Here is another video for flash removal on a part where the area below the flash is highly detailed. For such parts, I rely heavily onthe hobby knife with a curved blade. For this process, most of the flash is carefully removed with the hobby knife.

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For mold lines, I employ several methods. If the mold line is small enough, I will take a fairly new hobby knife and scrape along the mold line to remove it. The only problem with this method is that while scraping, you may flatten out a curved surface.,/p>

The safest method to removing the mold line is to use a sanding pad that conforms to the surface that you are sanding. This process slowly removes the seam while keeping the shape of the part you are working on.

In most cases, I employ all of the above techniques, scraping most of the line away, then sanding it down with a sanding pad. To help guild the mold line removal process; take a marker or any felt tipped pen and trace out the seam line. This can help guild the sanding process and help alert you when enough sanding is done. See the following video.

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Here is another video demonstrating mold line removal.

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Here are some still images of the before and after from the above process

Now, with the sanding process for cleaning up mold lines and flash, there are situations that happen when detail lines are sanded away.Using model scribing saws from Hasegawa’s Tritool line, I just follow the existing detail line and rescribe the detail. This is demonstrated in the video below.

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Feb 042009

This is a 1/7 Hustler kit from Orchid Seed that came out in limited production numbers at the end of last year’s HobbyComplex. I had the kit pinned at the last build gathering. I have yet to take pictures of the magnets, but I have magnets embedded into the edge of the pool table where she sits and a corresponding magnet in her butt. The kit is broken down very nicely, and it should be fairly easy to build and paint. The vest is broken down along a natural seam. The kit also comes with optional parts for building her with an open or closed shirt. Now this is where the casting comes into play. To take advantage of how well the kit breaks down, I’m planning on building three versions of the shirt, closed, half open, and fully opened. And for this, I need to make casts of the collar and extra shirt pieces.

hustler_prog 020_jpg.jpg mgb20 050_jpg.jpg

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May 312018

Update time. Over the past few weeks, I’ve been steadily working on this project so the little updates I used to do are more meaningful and have more meat to things. I like that I can show more substance than just random in the middle progress that takes a few updates to get the full pictures. It is easier to visualize and to connect the dots so to speak. So let’s get into this. The first thing for this update is filling the 3D printed gatling gun frame pieces. Since the print is small and I’m using the computer controlled hot glue gun style of 3D printer, there are resolution issues with printing so small that there is a bit of clean up. The pink stuff you see in the picture below is just melted ABS plastic in acetone. It works as a liquid ABS putty. If applied thinly, the stuff dries and cures fairly quickly over night so I can get to sanding it down the next morning. In the picture the bottom part has been sanded so you can see small pockets of the purple/pink filler. Once primed, all the defect holes and resolution lines disappear.

Next up, I did a quick mock up of the vents I built from the die cutting cricut machine. I added in the thrusters at the bottom to get a visual. The backpack is getting primed and still getting cleaned up after modding and bashing that part together; so that is also added to the picture. Mockups work to help me visualize the progress. I have a mental image of the design (I rarely ever draw out my designs and just go from what’s in my head). There is always room for changes as the build progresses. Sometimes, the visual in my mind’s eye isn’t recreated correctly, or if it is, it’s not visually appealing in the real world. So things constantly evolve.

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Nov 052017

It’s November, and another SCGMC has come and gone. We had another great turnout this year. We added even more vendors this year and the room was filled with all kinds of gunpla goodies from vintage kits, to resin add ons, to the latest release, to non gunpla mecha and anime figure goodness! We had folks come down from NorCal, folks up from San Diego, and even folks flying in from the east coast – Virginia, South Carolina, and Boston just off the top of my head. We changed our layout a little moving our demo area to the stage which created much more space for the entry tables as well as vendor space. Our special event shirts almost sold out too. It’s great to hear people come to the show and the first thing they do is run over to the shirt table and look for this year’s latest designs. It’s also awesome to run into someone wearing the shirts randomly out on the streets!

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