Jul 092016
 

So you broke a v-fin? It happens. It happens at the worst time possible. Is there actually a good time for breaking a V-fin? Possibly, when cutting it up to create a super saiyan v-fin. But most of the time, we scream obscenities when this happens. And this happened to me a few nights ago when I had just got done with all the principal painting for the VP Hi Nu kit I’ve diligently picked back up. What better way to kill the momentum, then snapping a part that has survived multiple boxing and unboxing, moves from one workshop to another, from one build gathering location to another, etc. The back of the damn Hi Nu is horribly imbalanced due to the amount of solid resin pieces added by the conversion kit. My original stand that held the kit didn’t hold and the kit fell backwards. As it did this, the V-fin, already glued to the head piece snagged on one my fat sausage like finger and, *snap* the inner piece of the fin goes flying to who knows where. Carpet probably ate it.

It’s resin, but the process to fix this is the same as any other bandai V-fin out there.

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Jun 122016
 

A few days ago, I was reading through some threads on reddit/r/gunpla and came across a thread asking about where to buy a specific type of display base. One of the users responded with a few links on how to build your own, and from this link in particular, I was inspired to search out some local suppliers and do my own version. The basic premise to the base are a few sheets of acrylic and some metal standoffs. The plastic pieces are easy, I’ve been grabbing scrap acrylic from local shops for a while and I dropped by one near my work and they sell the scrap by the pound. I picked up about 4 pounds of scrap plastic; gloss black, clear, and white and in different thicknesses. The next item was a little harder to find, the metal standoffs. There are plenty of sources online (amazon, eBay, online retailers, etc) But I wanted to see these in person before I picked some out; so I found a local sign shop supplier that was a wholesaler. The guy there hooked me up for a small sale since I wasn’t a sign shop (they only sell to sign shops)

So I picked up some metal standoffs seen in the above picture. Metallic black, chrome, and satin aluminum in the 13mm x 13mm size. They didn’t have the red and blue metallic ones in that size so I ended up with 13mm x 19mm, they’re a little taller. They sell individually for about 1.50 – $2 a piece, so I ended up spending about $42 or so for the 5 sets of 4.

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Mar 022016
 

A few days ago, I posted about making clear resin heat hawk by making a mold of the existing heat hawk, then throwing in a string of LEDs in the mold when I poured the clear resin. The resin has had some time to cure and I’ve had some time to ponder the next great question. “How the hell am I going to power this damn thing up?” One of the TGG folks not so innocently asked the question. For which I honestly answered that I had no idea and that I would solve that problem eventually. I already had a few ideas, I could replace the upper handle of the axe and run some wires through there and then through the hands, through the body, and have the battery and switch assembly somewhere on the base of the project. That seemed a little too much work. Laziness is the mother of invention. I decided to completely self contain the power source as well as the switching assembly. Here’s a video of that through process and how it all works out:

After the jump, I go through the pictorial and more wordy version of what I did in the shot 6 minute long video.

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Feb 232016
 

This is a very simple mod to replace those ugly as sin rubbery cables that come with 1/144 Zaku. I used some 22 awg solid cable as the base. Wrap a few turns of 28 awg magnet wire and clipped away the excess. Then slipped on a metal collar from an aftermarket metal gunpla parts seller like Adler’s Nest, HiQa or any number of other sellers of such products. Then repeated the process to make a new and much better looking Zaku Cable. A very short and simple tutorial.

144_zaku_cable_mod

Oct 052015
 

This is a quick little discussion about clear parts. Beam sabers, lenses, etc. They come on runners and when clipped, they still have nubs and mold lines; and some even have horrible mold marks. The MG Gouf 2.0 sword has circular mold marks in the clear yellow blade. First we’ll discuss the mold lines and nub marks. When these are sanded to remove them, the clear part becomes cloudy. The sanding process puts tiny scratches into the clear part which end up refracting light causing the part to look cloudy.

The fix for this is to continue sanding. Starting at a low grit the clear the mold line or nub. Then continue with higher and higher grits to effectively polish the part. I usually go up to about 600 grit with the polishing and the surface feels smooth to the touch. Meaning, when I run a fingernail across, I don’t feel the small scratches that are still in the surface of the parts. The part will look less cloudy with the higher grit polishing; but not completely clear. To get the part completely clear, a clear gloss is sprayed. The clear gloss works like a primer, the clear paint fills in the tiny scratches and makes the part completely clear. If the part is still cloudy, let the part cure, then polish again with higher grit and spray another gloss layer.

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Sep 232015
 

Here’s a quick spotlight on a technique that was discussed and joked about in last night’s TGG & Friends broadcast. The conversation about the technique came up because one of the participants was working on this technique and recently, another participant used the technique. The technique is not difficult in the least, and is pretty basic. It just plays off the use of contrasting a flat finish and a gloss finish with a single color. One of the guys called it the “clemstriping” effect and ended up becoming a running gag during the broadcast. I’m positive that someone else has long ago done this, so it’s nothing new, but we got a nice little laugh from it. Here are two examples of the technique; and hopefully after this posting, we’ll see many more examples.

m_wine_exs3 midnight_zaku_done 011_JPG

Last night’s TGG & Friends Live Broadcast:

Our broadcast is set for every other Tuesday, so the next live broadcast will be Tuesday October 6th.

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Mar 032015
 

I started work on this kit this past weekend. For this project, I’m going to try documenting the entire process with video as I did with the SD Glaug kit. Over the past few days, I’ve created four videos covering the kit unpacking and pinning; initial sanding; cleaning; and initial priming session. The figure is Sena Kashiwazaki (柏崎星奈) from Haganai (僕は友達が少ない), and is cosplaying a character within a game she played in the manga/anime. The kit was made available from キューズQ (QuesQ) at Wonfes 2015 then a few weeks later from their online shop.

The videos are after the jump.

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