Feb 252019
 

This past weekend, I saw a FB post from one of my local shops (Neo Happy Land Co) saying they had the RX-78 Gundam Exceed Heads in stock. They’re selling them there for $10. Which isn’t too bad a markup being that they’re gashapon items from Japan. I have a few of the Zaku Exceed Model heads from my own trip to Japan, so I definitely needed to get this one as well.

Also over the weekend, a modeler that goes by Marcogunpla post up pictures of his 3D designed neck piece for displaying the ’78 Head. He also posted the files up on Thingiverse. Marco printed it on a SLA printer in resin and the neck piece looks very nice. I downloaded the file and printed it on my FDM printer at .25mm and this took 3 hours. I did a print estimation for .15 and that would have taken 6 hours. I also ran a print estimation for an SLA printer (Formlabs preform software for the Form 2) and at .05mm the print would take about 8 hours. Still not too bad for the quality of print that I saw in the FB posts. The head unwrapped, the assembly is very simple. There is a chin piece and the V-fin that need to be assembled. The sides of the head pull out and you can grab the forehead piece to bring it up and the display is complete.

If you don’t build/paint/etc stop here. If you are a model builder and have picked one up or are planning on getting one to mod/paint/etc; read on!

Continue reading »

Feb 122019
 

Progress slowed down a bit because I spent a few days making a mold of a crappy Thai made resin recast of Faye Valentine that a friend of mine picked up back in 2003. The resin is so brittle and ceramic like in texture that it is near impossible to work with and sand. I had made some casts of the Dom’s leg thruster parts and had extra silicone to make one of the Faye parts and after that one piece, I just fell down the rabbit hole.

But back to work on the kit and like the last post, I will try to keep things organized towards the sections I got work on since the last update. First up is the work on the head. I started with tamiya epoxy putty quick type but that stuff takes a little too long and is pretty hard to sand, so I switched over to the polyester putty. And here are some comparison pictures to the original head. I also got the LED wired up and tested that look as well.

More head work after the jump.
Continue reading »

Feb 012019
 

Feb 1, 2019. I started this immediately after finishing the Dreissen project. Pretty much the same day. I stumbled upon the Dom Barrage, MS-09 F/Br a few years ago and was interested in doing a build of it off the MG Dom. But the reference pictures were pretty lacking and I think I found one online, built from the HGUC Dom Tropen. Using a Dom Trop really makes sense since the Barrage is a variant of the Tropen (Funf). I did find a conversion kit for the Dom F, but since I’ll have to modify that kit. So since there wasn’t a 1/100 F, next best thing was one of the MG Dom’s off my backlog. I already built 2 of these. And for some reason I have 2 more. According to a friend, one of them belongs to him, but he doesn’t build so he doesn’t mind me using it. Ok, references aside, the idea lingered in my head as a possible big project. But with the limited reference materials, I was hesitant. Fast forward to a few months ago, while playing Gundam Battle Operation 2; they released the Dom Barrage as a playable support suit. Once I got the suit, it meant unlimited screenshots from as many angles as I can get. Challenge accepted!

An MG Rick Dom is sacrificed for this and the project officially begins after the jump.

Continue reading »

Jan 222019
 

And a day after the last post, I’m done. I seriously did not think I was going to have this update until at least the end of the week. Dehydrator = time traveling for model building. I filled in some gaps between the 3D printed support piece and the base with more hydrocal and into the dehydrator. An hour later, I can sand the surface smooth and apply some plaster cloth to the whole base. Again, into the dehydrator. 2 hours later, I get to apply more hydrocal to the surface to even out everything and make the whole asteroid look like a single rock. Into the dehydrator. 2 hours later, I can sand and clean up the surface.

The first step is a quick wash with some acrylic brown. This give the base a starting color to work with. Next up, I used enamels and drybrushed in some colors using zinc, gunmetal, brass, and chrome. This gives the surface a little bit of tonal variation.

The final wash was acrylic black. The label says enamel, but when I tried to mix this with some lighter fluid, the two did not want to mix. So I used water and it worked just fine. My first pass was a little too light so I added more paint and did another pass with a sponge brush. This blends everything together. And then into the dehydrator. 2 hours later, I spray a clear flat and again, into the dehydrator for another 2 hours. The wood base was sanded and stained and placed into the dehydrator with I was drying the painted base. After 2 hours, a clear gloss was sprayed and back into the dehydrator. The rock base is drying with the clear flat at this time. Once that first layer of gloss is dry, I sanded it with some high grit sanding pads and sprayed another layer of gloss and back into the dehydrator.

2 hours after that last spin in the dehydrator and the base components can be assembled and glued together. What normally takes a day between each step that I used the dehydrator now only take 2 hours. So realistically, I was correct in estimating the completion at the end of the week. I just didn’t factor in that I could use the dehydrator for the base too.

And with that, here’s the finished kit assembled on the base. I have a connector in the base that connects to the foot of the Dreissen. The other food has some magnets that are attracted to some corresponding magnets in the bottom of the rock base to hold that foot in place. A quick switch and all the lights work. The upper torso is only held together by the connector. I should glue the damn thing together. But having them seperate allows for easy travel with the kit.

I turned off my photography lights to take some decent shots of the kit lit up. I have 4 LEDs in each leg, 3 in each shoulder, 4 for the rear skirt, 2 for the backpack thrusters, one for the mono eye, and a gaggle in the chest and waist areas to light those bits. So I think the final count is about 28 LEDs in total all wired in parallel and powered by one 3 volt button battery. Good thing I made a hole in the base that I can easily swap batteries.

For the rest of the complete pictures, go here: HGUC Dreissen Completed

The complete top to bottom progress for this project can be read here: HGUC Dreissen progress