Sep 272017
 

The project is finally coming to an end with this update. The last bit of detail work was to apply some black pastels on the edges of the dress to create some burn marks as per the original box art. The cape was first coated with a flat finish. Once that cured, the pastels will stick best to the flat coated surface. A q-tip is used to feather the pastels to blend the surface. Another clear flat is sprayed over the pastels to seal them in.

More final steps and completed picture gallery after the jump.

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Sep 262017
 

Getting down to the home stretch for this project. This weekend saw work on the base. The base is from Michaels and is unfinished wood. An example of what the wood looks like in comparison to the finished base is the first picture. The unfinished wood is sanded down. Once sanded down, it is stained with an ebony stain. Allowing that to dry, the base is sprayed with several layers of clear gloss. After several layers, the final layer is sanded down with high grit sanding pad to smooth out all the rough edges frozen in the cured clear gloss. A final clear gloss leaves the base in a ultra smooth glossy finish.

Most of the parts are curing after final detail painting and have been sprayed with clear gloss on some pieces to prepare those parts for detail washes. The other pieces are sprayed a final clear flat to finish them.

More after the jump.

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Sep 212017
 

A quick little update for this project. I’ve been spending time masking off the purple that was painted. After masking, the detail lines and straps are painted in black. I use mostly tamiya masking tape. Some areas are masked off with parafilm on larger areas. Over the masking tape and parafilm, a thin layer of liquid masking is used as a backup incase some of the masking tape isn’t completely overlapped.

Once the paint is cured, the masking tape is carefully removed. Luckily, I did not run into issues with paint lifting. A good sign that the cleaning process worked well and all the paint layers have cured. Things are starting to progress.

The eyes are done with the decals that came with the kit. I had applied a clear gloss first over the painted skin. This allows the decals to stick very smoothly to the surface. Over the decals, mr mark softer is laid down over the decals to help melt them to the surface and conform to the surface without wrinkles.

The hair was painted. The first layer was done with a light brown. Over that was a custom blond mixture. Since it was a little too white, I sprayed clear yellow to tint the hair.

I still have more pieces to unmask and more pieces to continue to paint. Progress continues. I am finally getting some decent stretches of time to dedicate to this project. There’s an IPMS contest coming up on the 30th. So hopefully my schedule stays clear and I can finish this and have a figure to show at that contest before packing her up and sending it off to its owner.