Feb 162021
 

It has been a good minute since I last posted anything. I think that last time I posed up something was the end of September 2020 for the ST Tortois kit from the 80’s. Shortly after that post, the wife and I packed up Bob and Ken and headed off to Yellowstone/Grand Teton for a week.

A few days after coming home, I started showing signs of Covid-19 and 7 days in, it got full blown and I had to stay at the hospital for 4 days while they injected me with all sorts of drugs and did daily blood draws. Not fun, but I fully recovered after a few weeks. Then it was on to Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Years all back to back with nothing new. Well, right before Christmas, the wife and I went RV shopping. From my experience getting the kungflu and seeing how easily folks in Class B’s were doing in Yellowstone; we decided that we wanted one.

Apparently lots of people are thinking along this line and it is pretty difficult to get our hands on one. We were debating between the Sequence by Thor or the Travato by Winnebago. They are both built on the Ram Promaster 3500 chassis and are fairly similar with the two floor plans we narrowed our decisions on; the Winnie 59G or the Sequence 20K. We ended up picking out the Travato 59G a week before Christmas and was told that a model we wanted would arrive sometime in January. We dropped 5K as a deposit and did the fun paperwork and then just waited for a month before getting called by the dealership to go and pick it up.

More about this and tons of pictures from the last few weeks after the jump.

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Sep 222020
 

I;ve had these 80’s Votom kits for a while and I haven’t built one ever. I’ve seen other modelers build some Votoms stuff and I like some of the styling. I just never got around to doing it. Sometime in August, I cracked open the box which was still originally tape sealed and just started. Oh how I do not miss kits from the 80’s. I’m not even sure if the glue in the box is still good. The last time I build on 80’s kit was a 1/144 Shiki that also had a small tube of glue. I think I was 10, and the kit was actually new *sigh* circa 1985 or so….I like to think that my skills have improved somewhat since, so away we go.

Complete start to finish as well as completed pictures after the jump.

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Aug 142020
 

A group of builder and toy collector friends wanted to do a timed group build, so they picked this kit for being new and fairly easy for anyone to grab and assemble. The goal is to just build it within the 2 week span of Aug 1 – Aug 15 2020. That’s it. No requirements for paint, mods, etc. Like the Nike ads say, just do it – or in our case, just build it!

The Gundam Beyond Global kit was picked for being new, easy to build, and most importantly, pose-ability. We are talking a group of toy collectors that generally like to pay with the figures. The kits arrived and at midnight Aug 1st, we kicked off the build. In preparation for the build, I grabbed a bunch of tools and detail parts I had only slightly used in my more recent builds to see about incorporating them more into this project.

Today is Aug 14, 2020, and I pretty much finished the kit last night and snapped final pictures. Complete details of this build after the jump.

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Jul 242020
 

She’s done!

Before we get to the full gallery, lets rewind from where I last left off. The pieces were glued to the base and ready for the clear resin. I used a very slow curing epoxy resin since the whole base is too big to fit into the pressure port. Also, a slow cure resin means lower curing temp. Fast curing resin will get pretty hot during the curing process and that would potentially melt things down. Since 99% of the kit is resin, this shouldn’t be too big a problem, but why take that risk. The resin I used works well with bandai plastic too. The resin was poured in three stages. To make sure I fill the area and to over flow it a little so I get an infinite top kind of look. I needed most of the resin to cure first before pouring additional layers. Once all the layers were poured and cured; the kit is removed from the dust free drying chamber I had and the excess resin can be cut and pulled away. This sort of ruins the sides of the base, but I’m not too concerned as this was expected.

An orbital sanded was used to quickly smooth out the sides and remove any excess resin. I started with an 80 grit, and moved up to a 180, then 220, and finally a polishing grit of 320.

Once smooth, the sides are wiped down with a damp cloth, dried, then painted on some black to finish the base.

The last bits were painting in the lips, finger tips and small little details such as the wires in between the cable tubes for her bikini strap. And she’s done. A fairly quick project completed in about a month’s time.

Here is a quick video showing her off

Here’s the still photo gallery: