Apr 252016
gusion_100_completed 028_JPG

I learned nothing from my mistake with the 1/144 Gusion, and colossally fucked it all up again with the 1/100. Just look at the shoulders for the 1/100 as well as the 1/144. It’s not the same issue per say, but it’s the same underlying issue that resulted in the problem. But we’ll get to that later.

First, there’s the final bits of detail paint work and the ever-so-fun patience game once all the paint has been sprayed. The first gloss coat needs time to cure. Decal application needs time for the decal softening and setting solutions to work. The second layer of gloss coat needs to cure. The enamel wash needs to be applied – then a bit of time to allow it to partially dry, then the cleanup then letting it sit to fully dry. And the final flat coat and letting that cure. But once the flat coat is done, we’re not quite done yet either. Since there are some detail parts that need attention as well as the final assembly. It’s damn hard fighting the temptation to only wait an hour after the final flat to dry to the touch and just get in and start assembling and gluing final detail bits. The flat coat is like any layer of paint, it needs time to cure. The one hour, dry to the touch ain’t gonna cut it. My impatience has caused horrific accidents at this stage from fingerprints to marred paint. Patience sucks ass; but is a necessary evil.

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Apr 182016

It’s been 3 weeks since the last update, so this will be a sizeable progress report for this kit. I’ve finally gotten past the seemingly endless cycle of putty –> sand –> primer; which means some actual color is getting on to the parts. And with painting, there’s always some amount of masking. And for this project, there is a bit of cycling with masking, painting, adding more masking, and continued painting. It’s almost inception level masking with how recursive this process can be; so I guess it’s a good thing I studied computer science. I can laugh at the simplicity of model building after breaking down everything to a basic concept. A function to build which uses glues, plastic, primer, putties, and cycling through the process. Then a function to paint with the masking, painting, and then remasking, and then rework after the mask is removed and problems pop up because of missed masking. But enough of this mindless rambling; on to the actual work.

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Mar 282016

This was a very productive weekend. When inspiration is there, never shy away from it, and just let it flow. I’ve gotten to the point where I cannot force myself to build something or it will just lose interest. Or if I come to a roadblock that gets me stumped, I may give up for something more powerful. The fun of this build is really keeping me focused and I got a great deal done this weekend. Here’s where the kit is standing now that it’s Sunday night and I’m recapping all I’ve done for the past few days, actually, since the last update really, which was only a few days ago too.

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Mar 252016

Model building ADD strikes again. I sorta hit a wall with the Zaku/Guntank diorama. I’ll eventually return to it like most projects. But this sucker came in a sometime last month and I’ve been itching to build it. I recently finished the 1/144 version, so I was curious to what I could do with the 1/100. The first thought was to just Out of Box the damn thing. But as I snapped and built this week and during our bi-weekly live broadcast, ideas started swirling and the past two days has seen a bit cutting fiddling. The following picture won’t last too long…

I cracked open the box this Monday and started the snapping, actually sanding the stupid inner frame, for which is COMPLETELY hidden, with very few exceptions. I got the sucker snapped together by the end of this week’s live broadcast on Tuesday. Going back to Monday for a bit, I started work to mold the Gusion Head’s yellow part (its eyes). I made the second part of the mold on Tuesday.

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Mar 022016

A few days ago, I posted about making clear resin heat hawk by making a mold of the existing heat hawk, then throwing in a string of LEDs in the mold when I poured the clear resin. The resin has had some time to cure and I’ve had some time to ponder the next great question. “How the hell am I going to power this damn thing up?” One of the TGG folks not so innocently asked the question. For which I honestly answered that I had no idea and that I would solve that problem eventually. I already had a few ideas, I could replace the upper handle of the axe and run some wires through there and then through the hands, through the body, and have the battery and switch assembly somewhere on the base of the project. That seemed a little too much work. Laziness is the mother of invention. I decided to completely self contain the power source as well as the switching assembly. Here’s a video of that through process and how it all works out:

After the jump, I go through the pictorial and more wordy version of what I did in the shot 6 minute long video.

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Feb 282016

I didn’t get much work on this project this week. We had our broadcast and I did some work finishing up the other side of the Guntank’s tracks, but more on that later. Starting off with the heat hawk, the thing is massive, so I figured I’d light up the damn thing. The first step is to glue to two halves of the hawk’s blade together and fill in the gap on one side of the blade. I just used Mr white putty and filled in the area. Once cured, the excess is sanded as well as the seams and I’m left with the below.

From that, I did this:

See how I got from the first picture to the second after the jump!

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Feb 232016

This is a very simple mod to replace those ugly as sin rubbery cables that come with 1/144 Zaku. I used some 22 awg solid cable as the base. Wrap a few turns of 28 awg magnet wire and clipped away the excess. Then slipped on a metal collar from an aftermarket metal gunpla parts seller like Adler’s Nest, HiQa or any number of other sellers of such products. Then repeated the process to make a new and much better looking Zaku Cable. A very short and simple tutorial.