Sena progresses with the eye painting. I’m still pretty scared of this process and I’m still learning, but here are some things I found that have helped me. I start off with the face getting a coat of white base then painting the main skin tones before going on to working the eyes.
Below is the video of the whole eye drawing and painting process:
The written details about the process comes after the jump.
I got two more videos in the can now. One for painting the skin tone and the other for just general painting that includes work with metallics and a little discussion on Alclad paints from the regular metallics to their enamel candy line and hot metal red. As usual, I ran into some issues with the paint chipping off the resin. I attribute the issues to improper soaking or cleaning of the resin. I did soak it over night which is my usual time allotment for that process. But the cleaner may need to be changed out; I’ve been using the same tub of purple power for well over 6 years now, possibly longer. I don’t think there is an expiration, but there’s quite a bit of gunk deposited in the liquid. The parts may have just had some super mold release. Who knows. The process is the same, you accept it and continue.
The following process progressed over several days, and in the video, I compress all this into a 25 or so long video. Post production editing is cool yet laborious work.
Painting Anime Skin Video:
The other video as well as a pictorial description of the kit’s progression so far after the jump.
For any resin figure, after the fun pinning phase, the initial sanding phase, and the first primer; everything goes into a perpetual cycle to work the surface preparation. The first primer layer will reveal most if not all the mistakes in the surface. Pinholes are bubbles in the resin and when found, these are typically just the top of the bubble and just below the surface is the actual bubbles so just applying a filler over this pinhole will not resolve the issue. Rough sanding spots are hard to see in the bare resin and shows up clearly in the grey primer. Missed mold lines are also easily found after the surface has been primed.