Ryofu Housen Progress

November 30, 2005: I ordered this kit a few weeks ago from www.hlj.com. This is my first original kit. After soaking her for about a week or so in some industrial strength purple cleaner fluid, I took her out and scrubbed her down with some dish soap, toothbrush and warm water. Today, I got down to the pinning, rough sanding and added some Mr Surfacer 500 to some of the small pin holes I found.

This kit had a good amount of mold lines/flash and pin holes. Interesting comparison to a recasted kit where some of these areas are fixed before the recasting process so in some cases, a recast would require less work. However, the details of the original are crisp and far outmatch a recasted kit.

Tonight I did the pinning, and realized that I did not take pictures of the pinning process for any of my resin works. For the sake of helping out others who are also new to building resin kits, I added some pictures to help describe the pinning process. The first picture is the right arm. I drilled a hole then added a small amount of glue and then inserted some metal wire (the pin). I cut the pin and drilled an adjacent hole to the attaching part - the upper torso, and there, a pinned piece. The next pictures are the two arms and their pins followed by a picture of all the parts pinned and ready for assembly.

The following pictures are the test fit. Another noticable different from an original and a recasted kit. The pieces fit very well. No missaligned areas; that sometimes plague a recast. Very nice. And yes, the RGM-79[G] is there for size reference and to touch Ryofu.

Last of what I did tonight was brush on some Mr Surfacer 500 in hopes to fill some of the holes. There's an area where I believe I need to use some epoxy putty, but I'll see what results I get from Mr Surfacer tomorrow.

December 3, 2005: I finished filling the pinholes with Mr Surfacer 500. The stuff worked wonderfully for filling in the minor seams. I finished up the sanding and fine sanding. Then primed the kit with Mr Surfacer 1200. This is the first time I used Mr Surfacer 1200 from the bottle. I overthinned it because I was a bit used to thinning Mr Surfacer 500 and 1000, so on my second pass, I thinned less and it went on nice and smoothly. Next up with the wetsanding and fixing more pinholes that showed up and other minor areas. This was followed by another test fit.

Next up was the base colors. I mixed a batch of base flesh tone and painted the skin areas. The hair took a bit of time to get a color mix that I was satisfied with. The base color for the hair was painted. Lightened tones of the base colors were used for the final color. I was debating on if I should use some pastels for some more shading, but I'm fairly happy with the current resuts. I laid down a coat of satin finish future/flat base and once that cures - at least afew days; I can go into much dreaded masking phase and continue painting the other parts.

I've decided to go with a chrome for the sword's blade color. The blade was painted with a gloss black lacquer and then the Alclad II Chrome was applied over that.

The below two pictures are close up shots of the finished hair painting and the sexy mid-drift.

December 11, 2005: Ok, parts I left for curing last week have cured and so I moved on to the masking phase. Masking was a bit more extensive due to all the jagged edges and curves. Good old tamiya masking tape and a fresh knife blade went to work and the masking went fairly well. I have yet to peel away the mask to see if I made any mistakes (I hope not). But below are the pictures of the masking process.

Next up was the painting for the pieces after the masking was complete. For the pants, I used a Midnight Blue and did some light shading. For the sweater, I went with a Red Madder, trying to get as close to a blood red as I could; also with some light shading.

A mixture of pearl powders and future to add a little satin/shimmering effect was added to the pant legs. For the pearl powders, I added a small amount of the pearl powder to my usual mixing shot glass and then used future floor polish as my medium for airbrushing. Your normal clears should work well as a good medium too.. The consistancy is similar to your basic metallic paints. Similar look and similar feel when spraying it through your airbrush. Do not use too much of the powders since it will clog your airbrush. Some metallics will clog airbrushes or are a little difficult to spray due to a high concentration of the big metallic particals. Same principal here with the pigment powders. Below are pictures of the pearl powders before mixing, and then the mixture of future floor polish and the pearl powders. The next two pictures are the results of applying the mixture.

The two pictures are just a few quick snap snots of the current progress. I still have some touch up work for the sweater, and detailing to do and the face. Getting close.

Base work: The following pictures are the progress for the base I have planned. This will be a simple asphalt type base. Beginning with a piece of unfinished wood from my local craft's shop. I masked off the areas that I plan to stain and clear coat. Then I gather the ingrediants for creating the asphalt surface. I use a clear acrylic medium and brush on a thin layer onto the wood base. While the acrylic medium is still wet, I sift baking soda onto the wet surface covering the entire area, and now need to wait 24 hours before I can continue work.

December 13, 2005: I have removed the baking soda from the base and then lightly sanded. Only making this update because I finished the Zaku head. More updates to come.

December 17, 2005: More work on the base progresses. From what I had up above, I applied a coat of Mr Surfacer 500. Once this dried, I scribed in a few lines to create a sidewalk like base. Some of the photos are a bit blue due to the wrong color balance that I was using when taking the pictures. I eventually fixed it. Once the lines were scribed, the masking tape came off and I stained the sides. I used a towel and dipped it into the stain for the application since I didn't want to darken the wood too much. Following the staining, the process of applying the polyeurathane gloss clear coat begins. This will take several coats since the wood will absorb a good amount.

Now for some progress on Ryofu herself. Everything but the face has been completed. I'm currently waiting for the future that I applied onto her eyes to dry so that I can continue to "fix" them. I originally painted them too small, and in a few days I can finish up the work on her eyes and by then, the clear coat process of the base should be done. Here are what the eyes look like now. Which is reason enough for the need to "fix" them.

Here are some pictures of her so far. Next update should include the completed page. Pending I don't continue to screw up the eyes or anything else for that matter.

December 18. 2005: Completed her today. With the base, here are a few more pictures of the base. The first is after 3 or so coats of clear gloss. The last is after about 5 or 6 coats of gloss. Next are pictures of the completed eyes. I believe these eyes are better looking that the ones above. If not, oh well, I feel I'm done wiht them. Then there's the picture of the head assembled.

The last picture is my lighting set up. I have three lights that I use. One overhead/back lighting lamp. And two lamps that face the centered object; one from the front directed upwards and the second from the rear directed downwards. The bulbs I use are GE Reveal light bulbs and over this I place some white sheets of paper to help diffuse the light.



Update Information:

Shels done. Please click here for the completed page.




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