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<\/a><\/p>\nNow beginning from the bare plastic, this tutorial begins after completing the initial sanding work. The first layer sprayed onto the plastic parts is primer. Primer does the following: <\/p>\n
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- Wipes out the color giving a single neutral color to start from<\/li>\n
- Fills in small scratches left over from the sanding process<\/li>\n
- Shows areas of rough sanding, mistakes in sanding, and pinholes that were unseen before (applies mostly to resin kits)<\/li>\n
- Primer also gives a nice surface for paint to stick<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Since most bandai gunpla kits come pre-colored, it is always a good idea to prime the kit as this wipes out the color and gives a uniform color to begin from. For example, if you wanted to paint a kit red, but the original color of the parts were black, the red would take on a much darker tone due to the black base color. Neutralizing this with a grey or white primer will give the red a more natural tone that is truer to the paint’s intended color tones.<\/p>\n
Primer is also a small filler and will fill in small scratches left over from the sanding process. The primer will also show areas where additional sanding work is needed. This happens often as the initial sanding phase does quite a bit of work, but some areas are missed. With additional sanding work done, reprime the part and you will notice a significant improvement in the surface.<\/p>\n
Following the primer is the base color and preshade color. Preshading is optional as it is a technique to create shading effects. The base color is typically a darker tone or variation of the final color. This creates a subtle shading effect if done correctly.<\/p>\n
Following the color layers, is a gloss clear coat. This is to protect the paint and create a surface most suitable for decals. For more information on applying decals, click here<\/a>.<\/p>\n
The waterslide layer is then protected with another gloss clear coat. For the next step, it is important to pay close attention to the type of clear coat you used. I typically use lacquer or acrylic gloss clear coats to seal in the decals layer. The next layer employs a wash using enamel paints. For more information on the panel line wash layer, click here<\/a>.<\/p>\n
An optional layer here is a fade or filter with employs enamel based paints to create subtle weathering effects like rain marks, faded paint, sun faded damage, etc.<\/p>\n
Following the wash layer, you can choose to apply your final sealing finish coat; gloss, matte, or flat; depending on the final finish you want on your kit; or you can apply a flat coat and add an additional layer of weathering: pastel\/pigment weathering.<\/p>\n
Once the pastels\/pigment weathering has been completed, the final clear coat can be applied as an option. A final clear coat will diminish the effects of the pastel\/pigment weathering, but will seal the kit so that it can be handled. If you know you will never handle the kit, you can skip this step. But if you want to eventually move, repose, or generally handle the kit, it is best to seal it. Your final finish is to your taste, but typically, if pastels were added, the final look of the kit should be flat or matte.<\/p>\n
Metallic paint layers differ from the general layers in that the base color prior to the metallics is always a gloss black. The gloss black is the best base color that brings out the luster and effects of the metallic paints. Weathering is typically avoided since a flat coat dulls the luster of a metallic paint finish. It is best to use semigloss(matte) or gloss as the final clear coat.<\/p>\n