This tutorial will go over the basic masking techniques for masking off gunpla. Most parts that need need to be masked on gunpla are typically straight edges, and the masking process is fairly straight forward. The following will discuss this type of masking. When masking off parts, there two main ways to approach the masking.
I primarily use Tamiya masking tape as my immediate masking tape choice. The tack level and thickness of the tape work well. I also emply 3M blue painter's masking tape that I use in conjunction with the tamiya masking tape to take care of large areas. Then On top of this I use Mr Masking Sol (Do not use Mr Masking Sol with acrylic based paints, as Mr Masking Sol will dissolve acrylic based paints) to cover the area as a final check to ensure that I have completely covered the area. For coverage of large areas, I use a product called Parafilm M, which is similar to saran wrap.
Below is a video showing the basic masking principals. I use a bamboo stick's point to run across the edge of the masking tape to ensure a good seal.
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Next is a video show the masking process with Parafilm M
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If possible, I remove the masking tape within an hour of painting the part. I do this because the paint hasn't had time to fully cure and when removing the tape, I can get a cleaner edge. If the paint had cured, there is a great possibility that I get paint chips along the edges of the masking tape. For situations that the masking tape needs to stay on the part for a prolonged period of time such that the paint cured, I just score along the edge of the masking tape with a brand new hobby knife prior to removing the masking tape and this reduces the chance for paint chipping along the edges. Below is a video showing the removal of the masking tape.
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Here are some still images of the above process
In hindsight, I should have painted the gold area first, masked that off, then paint the white, the masking would have been much simpler. In the following video example, I am masking off the gold detail, to repaint the area around the gold.
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For curved surfaces such as the interior of a thruster bell, or other organic shapes, I use blue sticky tack/silly putty as the masking agent. For the thruster bells, I paint the interior first, then mask the area off using the sticky tack. Patterns such as organic cameoflage can be done with sticky tack. Below are some pictures of thruster bell masking using sticky tack.
Next update will include masking techniques for figures, stay tuned!
May 16, 2008: Masking tutorial for masking gunpla. This page will be updated to include figure masking.