She was actually sorta done last Friday… almost. I had some trouble attaching the head since there is quite a bit of resin attached to the head such as her cape/cowl. I originally used a magnet to hold the head in place, but with all the resin bits together, it is too heavy for the magnet and the head tilts back opening up a huge gap in her neck as if she’d been slashed open. CA glue was attempted before SCGMC, followed by epoxy glue. Both seemed to have failed and there was still a relatively large gap if you looked at the neck to body connection area. I didn’t bother entering the kit at SCGMC so it was just on display with it’s floppy head condition. After the show, I removed the head section and dug out the dried glue. The fit wasn’t that great so I drilled out some resin for a better fit. Once I had the fit, I tried the CA glue again and left it sit for a full day. That still didn’t work out too well, so the last ditch effort was to mix some resin and drop some small amounts of the mixed resin into the connection point as well as brushed on the neck’s contact point and pressed the two sections together. 15 minutes later, the resin has solidified and the head is attached the the body very securely. So without too much fanfare, she’s done. If you want to read the full end to end build progression of this kit, check it out here: Grim Reaper Complete Progress
I’m still recovering from the event, but it was a damn fun time. I met a ton of new folks and got to see lots of familiar faces. For those that want to skip to all 240 entries.. yes, there were 240 ENTRIES by 116 entrants, the gallery link is here: SCGMC 2018 Gallery This is a pretty signification jump from last year’s number of 186 entries by 113 entrants. Our attendance numbers jumped from 264 to 358, which is a very signification push of almost 100 more people at our little show. We doubled our number of vendors this year and added in an artist selling their Gundam related artwork. We are expanding on all fronts. This is a good thing. We thought we had the room for everyone which is bigger than last years, but we’re definitely outgrown this ballroom this year. We are currently shopping some potential new venues and also considering just getting two ballrooms at the place we were at this year. So more to come as that develops. You guys will learn soon after we learn!
Lots of familiar faces, some folks have been coming the entire time and I saw one father and son tell me that they’d been coming since he was 17 or so, he’s now 25. It is awesome to see so many families that build together and also win together. We opened up our demo spaces to folks outside our group and I think that was a resounding success. We had Tim from Child of Mecha do a very intimate scratch building session. Session for diorama building, a session for panel line scribing, and we had a very well received talk about how to apply lessons learned in art into our projects. I think this will definitely open up the door much wider to our audience that want to show off some of their skills and teach their fellow builders a thing or two about a thing or two.
The group of us had a TGG Live broadcast two Saturday’s ago and I was in the midst of finishing the Death kit so I really didn’t have anything to work on, so I cracked open this little kit I picked up from Hong Kong the last time I went back. It is a recast of a set of SD kits from Metal Box. I had previously build the SD Officer’s pod so the break down of these kits are pretty nice. I also started on the SD Monster that is in partial paint stages. But interest on that beast waned so here we go with this. Instead of pins, I optioned magnets as the connection points for the joint/sockets for all the parts. Some quick clips of the flash, drill a hole here, add glue there, stick a magnet noting the correct polarity, and done. It’s standing fairly well on it’s own. Ok, maybe the skewer behind is giving some emotional support. But here’s the kit after the broadcast on Saturday.
Seven months after my last post on the subject; it is time to get around to finishing the damn project. So let us catch up. Here is a mockup of Death right about the end of March as I continued working on masking and painting. I had pictures and progress in the can when I switched gears in the middle of April to start work on the Bear Guy project. The purple is painted over the main cape and note that at the head, there’s a hole where I have a pin that holds the hoodie/cape in place on her head since it is a fairly large piece of resin, I need something load bearing to help with the balance.
Things are back on skewers to continue the paint mask paint mask process.
The two pieces of her lower dress are masked off to paint the edges. The front side is masked off to paint the detail lines.
The process is repetitive, mask, paint, mask, layer by layer.
Once the last layer of a part is done, all the masking can come off and I get to see areas I need to touch up. A wash and some hand brushing fixes most of these issues.
Death’s scythe work begins with a base coat of black. I use a sponge and some color metallic paints to get some textures.
The tassels are masked and painted as well as the left arm and scythe handle. I wanted to do the skeleton bits in a bone color so I mixed up a custom off white and painted that over the black to get a bone like look.
The other side of the skirt is masked and painted.
Returning to the scythe, I screwed up with the clear so I needed to sanded it down and repaint. This stuff happens and you just deal with it.
Left arm glove got more masking to paint in the belt details. And the zipper is hand painted with enamel silver.
The front and back skirts are done and everything is unmasked. The red could use with a wash, so a black enamel wash was done; you can see a comparison with the unwashed and washed. The wash really brings out some depth to the details. At this point, the kit was 90% done and just sat on a shelf collecting dust while all my focus went to the Bear Guy project. The date for that last picture in this set is April 7; then all worked pretty much ended.
Returning to the project, 10/20, 6 and a half months later. I get to masking the scythe and just start working. I finished the Bear Guy in July, but ended up just playing Gundam Battle Operation 2, going to events and finishing up a commission project to fix some broken wings on a Holy Bell kit from Volks.
So here’s a quick little intermission for the Holy Bell repair project. The parts were yellowed and the wings looked off colored from one another. My guess is sunlight damange. And there were some broken wing bits. You can see in the first picture that this Death project was already underway.
The fix was set with glue and putties and primed.
A new white was painted a layer of clear and micro pearl powders to give a sparkly effect to the wings. Then another layer of pearl white was sprayed over everything to blend everything together. And this short intermission was started in the middle of Death, through the Bear Guy project and completed before I started back on Death.
Back to Death; the ever fun eye painting part. Oh do I dread this part of the build. I’ve been spoiled by the past few figure builds being from Volks that come with eye decals. Not this time. And the head is the size of a quarter. My fear in doing the eyes also helped drag this project out so long. I could have done them months ago, but nope. I had even picked up some nice Windsor & Newton Series 7 0, 00, and 000 brushes. These are some damn fine brushes. Coupled with a 10X magnifying omnivisor, the eye painting wasn’t as difficult as I had built up in my head. All the painting for the eyes are done with enamels to allow for blending and better work times. I didn’t use a black but a gun metal to draw out the eye and some of the lining. Black was done for the eye lashes. A grey was done for the eye brows and iris color. The the head was left alone to cure for a day. Next, the pupils were done with the gun metal. Some eye liner and a small amount of zinc for the iris near the pupils. The omnivisor at 10x mag and the 000 brush really help get in details that cannot be seen by the naked eye.
The lips were done and also the teeth inside her open mouth. A mix of red, pink, and flesh tone created this lipstick color. Everything was left to cure for another day and then everything is masked off so that the eyes can get a coat of clear gloss to make them look wet. After a few layers of gloss, the masking is removed and the eyes now have a bit more depth to them with the layers of gloss.
Earlier I had noted that there was a hole in the hoodie for the pin to the head. Here’s where all that comes together. Once I get the hair painted and the face painted, the whole head is glued together and left to set up. The two halves of the cape are glued together. If you look carefully, you should notice that the two pieces of the cape have different color tones where they meet up. This happens more often when you paint adjoining pieces separately. But since I was already planning on repainting this area anyways, I didn’t really bother. I really wanted the majority of the part painted before I got here. Since I’m now here. I added in the pin, glued everything together, then puttied the hole and sanded everything. After a layer of primer, and paint, the hood part has a solid tone between the two pieces and this part is almost done.
While doing test fit with the 95% completed parts, I noticed that at the perv angles, you can get a glimpse of some side nipples. So, using some enamel paints, I mixed up a light pink flesh tone and airbrushed some areolas. I used enamels so that if I screwed up, which I did, I can wipe the layer of paint away without harming the skin tone already there and start fresh. I had to do this a few times to get this close enough.
So here without the head and hair in the way, the perv angle is clear and you can see a hint of nip.
This brings us up to date and she’s about 99% done. The main figure and head are done.
The last two pieces got an ink wash to bring out some details and this wash needs a day or so to cure up. Then I can spray a protective layer of clear gloss and continue with a filter I have planned to change up the tones for the scythe and scythe handle.
A week out before SCGMC, this should be done by then and will be entered into the Anime Figure category for the show this year!
A group of us went to Phoenix last week for the IPMS Nationals 2018. I got invited by some folks I’ve known in the IPMS AZ club to do a few seminars, one on advanced weathering and one on gundam model building. We rented out a house in the lovely town of Gilbert AZ that had 3 AC units powering the thing as well as a nice pool. This sorta helped us cope with the average daily temperature of 113° F. Hot doesn’t even begin to describe the feeling under the sun. The wife and I drove out with the three boys in tow Wednesday morning. We would spend a few days at the contest and a day up in Sedona doing some hiking, and all the while, drinking, eating, and playing GBO2 at the house.
More after the jump.
The kit has been done for a few weeks now, this update just finishes the base I had started when I needed a break from cleaning up and fixing the resin binders. I touched on a few things on the last update with the basics of the base, but other than just slapping things together, I didn’t do any focused work since I felt the best thing was to just power through and finish the monster first.
Returning to this full time since that kit was done, I finished up the detailing for the control panel. I use the cricut to make some button templates and started to glue in some detail bits. More parts from the ball kit to create the lever. I used some styrene tubes and made more magnet wire wrapped cables that I glued into position. And this part is ready for primer.
The rest of the base works after the jump.
June update for this project. As of this posting, the main kit for the project is done. I’m just playing catchup with the progress for what happened between the last update and last week’s final assembly and photo session. I took all these pictures during the build so why not post up the progress. Last we left off, I had just applied a ton of putty all over the lower body. The gaps and some panel lines are getting filled. Once the putty is dry, its off to sanding the whole section. In addition of the putty, I used some of the UV gel product to quickly fill small areas. Not pictured in the first set is the initial primed kit after all the sanding. Pictured is the part after sanding the initial layer of primer.
Returning to the upper torso, I now have the control panel getting painted. The last updated had the beginnings of painting this area. I hand painted in the button colors. Once the paint is dried, I sprayed a clear gloss because I wanted to add some water slide decals for the dials. The center screen is color shifting iridescent stickers from HiQ, so different angles will give a different color reflection. It works well enough as a screen for the control panel. I also did a quick mock up with the upper torso and the primed lower torso.
More about the final steps of this build after the jumpp